Family tour to Jammu & Kashmir (Guest post by Mr. Pradeep Prabhu)

In this part I cover our scintillating and near fatal  experiences  faced during  trek to Maata Vaishnodevi Temple at Jammu . Other temples in and around Srinagar- Ksheer Bhavani Temple ,Martanda temple are presented  in this part .

Dal lake, Srinagar

In July 2012, I visited Kashmir with my wife and family with a hope to see what I visualised, during my childhood days. I had visualised Kashmir as a place of gardens, lakes , valleys ,snowfall and the land where kesar  is grown. But with the passing  years, this picture turned  gloom  and  was  replaced by  militants,  armed  personnel  and  scared  pundits  fleeing  in fear. We booked a tour package conducted by  Nirmala travels,Mangalore 2 months ahead of tour. Our family along with Surekha's aunt Meenakshi & uncle Mohandas ,sister Sujatha, Krishna Prabhu & her kid Aparna were in our group.

  We boarded a train from Mangalore to Delhi and from there to Jammu. The  trains running from Delhi to Jammu were flooded with Amarnath piligrims .Landing at Jammu we experienced warm climate, it was an extended summer, we left for Katra that took 1 hours in a traveller. From January  to  March the  season  is  white  in J&K and  April  to  August  is  green.

 For the next 2 days we were put up at  Hotel Singh International in Katra. Our Tour guide Mr. Raviraj briefed all 40 tourists about this package, an initial exchange of pleasantries with other members gave us an idea to plan our trek for next day.  Food was prepared by Mangalore based cooks. Maa Vaishno Devi temple stands to be the holiest temple and regarded as the most visited pilgrimage centre  in India.

View of Maa Vaishnodevi hill from Katra

 Next day early morning,we started trek at 04 am from BANGANGA check post, with others. This first 6 km of walk is the most steep one,really tough for legs.  The paved trail is very busy with walkers, ponies, palkies and shops. Because of ponies it stinks a lot till Ardhkumari, even though cleaning is done from time to time. Those allergic to dust may experience throat irritation after journey  which may disappear in few days. From there onward last 5 km to Bhawan, there is separate ways for ponies and pilgrims, so much better and fresh air. Drinking water, snacks ,beverages , ice cream, and food is  available all along the way.We availed the service of Pittu to carry our luggage, they also carry kids, massage legs .On the way we ate Rajma chawal and drank cold Nestle Tea.

starting point of trek at Bhangangaa,those sticks are helpful during ascent

Paved way ,pleasant weather 

View of  Katra town from top

this trail is free from passing ponies

Closing down towards the Bhavan

After reaching the Bhawan , we kept our luggage, camera (we did not carry mobile) at the locker ,the queue was a long one,it almost took an hour to get a locker to keep our camera.,by that time others were gone.The Darshan queue was also a long one, ladies and gents were separated in different lines.There is no idol, the cave itself comprises of three natural rock formations or pindies belonging to Maha Kali, Maha Lakshmi & Maha Saraswathi which are immersed in water. Finally out happily, could not find my wife,somehow spotted her due to the  dress colour. After this incident, we always plan the spot to meet after the darshan .Very tired after that walk and push ups  at Locker we ate dosas carried  from Hotel. Surekha insisted to visit Bhairo mandir perched on the top still 4-5km uphill further. This time we hired a pony, it turned to be a steep ascent .Balancing the down hill ride on pony is not my world,I almost slipped ,but the pony care -taker held me at the right moment.

This  treacherously long, uphill walk of 12 kms from Katra to  worship  Maa Vaishnodevi at Trikoota mountains  and the return  distressing pony ride of 18 Kms (from Bhairo) downhill almost  gave  me  a  second  life. I surely had Maa Vaishno devi's  blessings. Jai Mata di !!.Finally we reached room at 6.00 p.m , I gulped pain killer tablets because my hands and legs were aching.

Shankaracharya Temple,Srinagar

Overlooking the beautiful town of Srinagar, perched on the Gopadri hill  is the ancient shrine of God Shiva. Ever since Adi Shankaracharya visited this shrine,the temple got the name Shankaracharya Temple.Here at Srinagar, Shankaracharya accepted the predominance of Shakti cult (greatness of Devi) wrote Saundarya Lahari in praise of Devi after yielding to a lady in discussion ,

There is a motor-able road till top,after that a bit of a trek, some 240+ steps, the views of Dal lake from the top are awesome.  There is heavy army presence here, and tourists are not allowed to carry cameras/bags and mobile phones.

Ksheer Bhawani Temple, near Shrinagar
On the way to Sonmarg, 27Km from Srinagar is Ksheer Bhawani Mandir,  set amidst the picturesque surroundings covered with the trees of Chinar. The Goddess Ragnya originally worshipped by Lord Rama is depicted in the form of a natural hexagonal spring that is adored by the devotees..Devotees offer 'Kheer' to the consecrated spring. It is alleged that 'kheer' turns black in color signalling inauspicious period for the inhabitants of the valley. Presently the temple is maintained by Indian army,hence tight security maintained at entrance, it is the most sacred place for Kashmiri Pandits. We ate the Kheer prasadm here,Amarnath Yatrees halt  for food,donations are accepted here . In the premises ,spotted the branches of a Chinar tree  cut and shaped to form the image of India.

Lake circumventing the Ksheer Bhawani Mandir

Chinar trees 

Branches  cut in the shape of Map of India

Details about the temple

Kashmir is blessed with nature's bounties, temples are most impressive.

After Ksheer-Bhavani, next day our destinies took us to Pahalgam . On the way , our driver stopped our vehicle in front of  Avanthipur  temple ruins which was once upon a time capital of  Kashmir. A sardarji Guide  in Punjabi –English  accent explained the history of the temple, but we could not capture his accent.

Avanthipur temple ruins

Avantipur ruins speak about glorius past

Martand Suriya Temple, Mattan

En route to Pahlgaon, at Mattan,there  is a blissful temple dedicated to Lord Surya having a large pond  with fishes. Tourists are often confused with the Majestic National Monument in Martand . Apart from Sun Temple there are temples of Lord Vishnu, Hanuman & Shani in this complex,This is the only place managed by  Kashmir Pandits ,also  sacred to the Sikhs as Guru Nanak Devji came here & stayed for 13 days. A Gurudwara has been built .We interacted with  local temple caretakers,donated some amount and heard the history and relevance of the site from both Hindu and Sikh perspective . From here Pahalgaon is only 34Km.We were not taken to the ancient Martand temple only 2km from Mattan.

Mattan Surya Temple complex

Temple Pond

Odhisha Odyssey (Part 2)

  Around Puri and Konark 

Places covered : Puri Temple, Konark Sun temple and Chilka lake

Kalinga style of architectural form of Odisha found its supreme expression in the form of temples, some of which are among, finest in the country. Of these, three most famous temples are the Lingaraja temple at Bhubaneswar (11th century), the Jagannath Temple at Puri (12th century) and the great Sun Temple at Konark (13th century). 

Jagannath Temple in Puri, Odisha 

Jagannath Temple in Puri, Odisha  is one of four dhams for Hindu pilgrimage. Known as the White Pagoda,this temple enshrines deities of Krishna, Subhadra and Balarama. One need to take a special ticket from counter for entering inside .The temple has 4 gates, facing the 4 directions. On the east-facing gate, there are stone images of 2 lions and it is called the Lion Gate. The north, south and west facing gates are called the Elephant Gate, Horse Gate and the Tiger Gate respectively. As we arrive at the vast open area in front of the Lion Gate, we see a ten meter tall monolithic pillar known as Aruna Stambha, this pillar was removed from Konark when the temple was forsaken and fixed in front of Jagannath temple. Immediately after we get into the main gate and go forward, we find a flight of steps. They are locally called Baisi Pahaca, literally meaning, 22 steps. At the end of the stairs, we have to cross another gate that enters a second compound wall and then we have to turn left to go towards the Ganesh temple. There are attractive carvings on the sides of this entrance of the inner compound wall. 

left pic -priest climbing the temple Gopura during Dwaja parivarthana 

We had a quick darshan of the deities inside the temple in the evening at about 4.30pm without any disturbance from any Pandas, in fact one of the Panda bought dry  Prasadm for Rs 200. Here  devotees can go behind the idols(go round the idols)during the Sahana Mela . There are 3 main shrines inside the premises (i) Vimala temple (ii) Ganesh temple at the foot of the Kalpavata (a very old banyan tree) and (iii) Lakshmi temple. The Vimala Temple (Bimala Temple) is considered one of the most important of the Shaktipeeths  where the Goddess Sati's feet fell. It is located near Rohini Kund in the temple complex. Outside the Girbhagriha, pilgrims  were waiting to see the Flag changing ritual by the priest , we too waited for half hour. Our driver (also our Guide) told us a panda climbs up the sheer face of the temple and bring down the old flags and put up the new ones is a sight to be witnessed.Later we came to know that the Dwaja Parivartna ceremony was over when we were inside the temple. We were out within a hour feeling enchanted  to see  Lord Jagannath. That night we stayed in a Hotel located near to Puri Beach. 

Konark Sun Temple

The drive between Bhubaneswar and Konark is lovely with good roads and country side. It takes about an hour to reach Konark from Bhubaneswar. Standing in front of this magnificent  was a dream come true,we immediately engaged a guide to know everything about the temple

The Sun temple of Konark widely known for its fine harmony of design and architecture, its name is a clubbing of Kona (corner) and Arka (Sun), meaning the corner of the Sun.Ancient Sailors had named it as “ Black Pagoda” because of its dark color ,but was dubbed as the cause of ship wrecks that occurred along the coast.There are many speculations regarding the fall of the temple. It is said that a massive magnet  placed at the temple top had created an architectural marvel of Lord Surya’s idol to float  in air .The sailors  took away the magnet which was integral part of the temple thus disturbing the stability of the structure. Other reason held for destruction is earthquake 

Guide narrated this legend as to “ Why the  Sun God does not get worshipped in the epic temple built for him” .The story goes back to 13th century A.D. , when 1200 WORKERS worked for 12 years to build the KONARK TEMPLE  spread across 12 acre on the command of the King Narasimhadeva-1 of the Eastern Ganga Dynasty. The chief architect Bisu Maharana had a deadline to finish the temple in 12 years, finally failed to host the crown stone His son Dharmpada a 12  years boy whom he never saw since birth because he was busy with temple work visited the spot to see Dad's achievement,overhears the conversation of craftsmen , that they will be beheaded in case they fail to meet the deadline.  Right from his childhood Dharmapada was interested in architecture and mastered all the manuscripts regarding temple construction. The small boy suggests a solution ,by midnight the kalash stone is rolled to the top of the Gopura. Dharmapada hears whispers that king will still not be kind with his father and other hardworking craftsmen,next day at sunrise ,he jumps off the the Temple top into the blue sea waters.

Main attractions of the temple :

1.Natya Mandir is the first part of the temple.Every inch of the mandapa is filled with sculptures of women – dancing, singing, playing instruments, dressing up.

One such pillar at Natya mandap

 2.The Konark Sun Temple takes the form of a huge chariot for the sun god Surya, with 12 pairs of stone-carved wheels and a team of seven galloping horses (only one of which survives intact).

 

3.The wheels have 8 spokes that symbolize the eight ideal stages of a woman's day. One can analyze the exact time of the day by just looking at the shade cast by these spokes.

4.The entrance is guarded by 2 huge lions ,Each lion is crushing an elephant. Beneath every elephant lies the human body. Lion represents pride and elephant represents money. Problems faced by human beings shown in one shot. 

5.Indian architecture depicts the following - Lord, Time, Karma, Living Entities and Nature. There are images of animals, foliage, men, warriors on horses and other interesting patterns. 

Wheel of life or Passage of time

6.Kalinga wanted to promote growth in polpulation. There are erotic sculptures on the second level of the temple.

7.There are three images of the Sun God, positioned to catch the rays of the sun at dawn, noon and sunset. 

The temple is a UNESCO World heritage site  ,restoration work is going on.

Reference: https://highwayonlyway.com/tag/konark-sun-temple/

Chilka lake

Boat boarding point

 Chilika is a very beautiful lagoon about 2 hours drive from Bhubhaneshwar. At the boat boarding point, there is parking facility and one has  to hire a boat. We took the 3 hour speed boat ride  for Rs 2000, ordered food in the restaurant(quite expensive). Now I feel the fares are steep and manipulated by the boat owners. One can enjoy the calm nature  and cool breeze and I advise one should carry drinking  water and biscuits  and cover the  kids . Dolphins and few birds can be spotted on the way to the island. After an hour or so we reached an island,we called our son, BSNL Telecom signals were very clear. Fishermen approach with sea shells claiming that they carry  pearls, gems etc, should not buy them. Return journey seemed to be long because of the headache I got, could not eat anything from the restaurant, our driver sensed it as a gastric problem purchased tablets for me.  Within a hour I was fit for Puri Jaganath Darshan

Kalikamba temple

Odhisha Odyssey (Part 1)

In and around Bhubhaneshwar 

It was still the wee hours of morning during January 21st 2016 when we landed at Biju Patnaik Airport , Bhubaneswar ,one hour flight journey from Vishakpatnam. Our destinies were directed towards Puri - a holy city situated on the east coast of India, also a part of Hindu Chardham yatra .It is not just the religious passion alone that forced this tour,but desire to explore new place, traditions and landmarks. We only knew that Odhisha  is a culturally rich state with glorious history, temple architecture  and  enjoyed a secured place among women's wardrobe for its ethnic Ikkat silk sarees. The cab driver whom we hired from “Cars on rental” to drive us to Hotel Urmee, turned to be friendly, offered his service to take us round for the 3 days.  He suggested an itinerary to cover Golden triangle circuit consisting of Bhubhaneshwar , Konark  and Puri with Chilka lake. His promise to accompany us to Puri Temple was itself an icing on the cake to our enthusiastic venture.

First place to visit in Bhubaneswar-Puri trip was Rajarani temple situated at old Bhubaneswar near Tankapani Road. Rajarani temple derives its name due to the employment of dull red and turbid yellow sandstone locally called "Rajarani".It is famous for its sculpted figures and the successive tiers of projections rising to form  18 m tower.  This temple has no idols as such. Dance, Life and some very personal moments of life similar to Khajuraho  mithun shilpas are depicted in the form of carvings around the temple .The best preserved sculpture of the temple are the standing astadikpalas on the central façade of kanika .

Successive tiers of projections all around the temple to form a 18m tower

Shilabalikes

Ashtadikpala -Kubera

Ashtadikpala-Indra

                               The image of Indra is intact and notable for its body ornamentation, coiffure and facial expression. Scenes of marriage of lord Shiva, lord Nataraja, goddess Parvati are the cult images present in the temple. There are tall slender sophisticated Shila balikes gracing the walls of the sanctum depicted in various roles and moods in passionate actions such fondling her child, holding a branch of tree, attending to her toilet, looking into mirror, taking off her anklet, caressing her pet bird and playing instrument. . The Government tourist  guide gave information about architecture  and historical connections. He knew the basics and the important elementary facts about the temple architecture and spoke in a very good English .

Rajarani temple as venue during annual dance festival in January 2016

Every year Rajarani Music Festival is organised by the Department of Tourism in the Rajarani Temple complex in Bhubaneshwar, we missed it by a day.
Lingaraj Temple :The temple dedicated to Harihara, a combined deity form of Lord Vishnu and Shiva, is one of the major tourist attractions of the city. The central tower of Lingaraj Temple stands at a height of 180 feet and the temple complex contains 50 other shrines. Pandas/Priests at the entry approach for offering puja but we did not avail their service. There were only few people inside, we performed pooja here and poojari gave us a silver bilwapatra.
Around the vicinity of the shrine, there are other temples of different gods and goddess.

Bindusagar lake with Lingraj temple in the background

Muktheshwar temple:  The "torana" (arched gateway) is the first attraction of this temple. It is really  the Gem of Odisha architecture. It is a nice place for both worship and leisure. The temple faces west and is constructed in a lower basement amidst a group of temples. The temple is a small one compared to other larger temples in Bhubaneswar. The temples is enclosed within an octagonal compound wall with elaborate carvings on it.

Mukteshwar temple with arched gateway

Dhauli Shanthi stupa : Dhauli believed to be the battleground of Kalinga war is a hillside lying on the banks of river Daya just 8km from Bhubhaneshwar.  Kalinga war that took place in 261B.C had lot of implications on Emperor Ashoka’s mind ,completely transformed his thoughts and soul after which he embraced Buddhism. It is said River Daya had completely turned red due to the blood of dying soldiers from both sides of Magadha and Kalinga kingdom. This is the site of the Vishwa Shanti Stupa built by Japan Buddha Sangha and Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha. After offering our obeisance to Lord Buddha, we had an aerial view of Daya River

Daya river that bore the brunt of Kalinga war

Dhauli Vishwashanthi stupa

Lord Buddha in different postures  

Nandankanan Zoological Park is located 20 kms ahead of the capital city Bhubaneswar in Orissa. It has aquarium, zoo, safari and boating opportunity. This Zoo is well maintained and variety of animals, reptiles, birds are kept here. Here we took the services of a guide , initially took us around  the zoo and  accompanied with us to tiger,lion and bear safari .The attraction to me was the  royal Bengal tiger. Electric Battery operated car (privilege at the cost of waiting time )is also available for those who want a quick zoom through the park.

Nanda Kannan Zoological park 

Royal Bengal Tiger 

Just outside Bhubaneshwar ,on top of the hill are Udayagiri and Khandagiri vaves. These are the twin hills of Kumargiri and contain varieties of rock-cut caves, built mainly for the Jain monks around 1st - 2nd century B.C. These are old caves partly natural and partly structured  built as residences for Jain monks. You need to climb a few steps to reach to caves. Most of the caves consist of rows of cells having opening towards the common verandas or open space. The doorways have attractive carvings of animals, creepers and flowers. Climb is steep place may be hot during summer season.
 On Kandhagiri hill you can also visit beautiful Jain temple and can enjoy beautiful view of the city. Be careful of monkeys as they are large in numbers. Udaygiri caves can be best seen from Kandhagiri hill. You may take guide for better appreciation of the caves. From the top – one can get nice views of the city. Our driver told  us that few  scenes of  Shahrukh Khan and Kareena Kapoor starrer Asoka was shot  amidst this magnificent setting of caves and last scene at Dhauli.

Udaygiri caves as seen from road

Jain temple on hillock of Khandagiri

View of Udayagiri from Khandgiri

 Afternoon we used to have authentic South Indian cuisine at Idli bhavan  Bhubaneswar (located towards infocity) cooked through an experienced cooking team from Chennai's best restaurants. The city is an amalgamation of South Indian and East Indian cultures, one can converse in Hindi with locals .Evenings were spent shopping at Boyanika and Utkalika for Ikkat sarees, purchasing silver jewellery at Lalchand jewellers.