Friday 28 April 2017

Family tour to Jammu & Kashmir (Guest post by Mr. Pradeep Prabhu)

In this part I cover our scintillating and near fatal  experiences  faced during  trek to Maata Vaishnodevi Temple at Jammu . Other temples in and around Srinagar- Ksheer Bhavani Temple ,Martanda temple are presented  in this part .
Dal lake, Srinagar



In July 2012, I visited Kashmir with my wife and family with a hope to see what I visualised, during my childhood days. I had visualised Kashmir as a place of gardens, lakes , valleys ,snowfall and the land where kesar  is grown. But with the passing  years, this picture turned  gloom  and  was  replaced by  militants,  armed  personnel  and  scared  pundits  fleeing  in fear. We booked a tour package conducted by  Nirmala travels,Mangalore 2 months ahead of tour. Our family along with Surekha's aunt Meenakshi & uncle Mohandas ,sister Sujatha, Krishna Prabhu & her kid Aparna were in our group.

  We boarded a train from Mangalore to Delhi and from there to Jammu. The  trains running from Delhi to Jammu were flooded with Amarnath piligrims .Landing at Jammu we experienced warm climate, it was an extended summer, we left for Katra that took 1 hours in a traveller. From January  to  March the  season  is  white  in J&K and  April  to  August  is  green.

 For the next 2 days we were put up at  Hotel Singh International in Katra. Our Tour guide Mr. Raviraj briefed all 40 tourists about this package, an initial exchange of pleasantries with other members gave us an idea to plan our trek for next day.  Food was prepared by Mangalore based cooks. Maa Vaishno Devi temple stands to be the holiest temple and regarded as the most visited pilgrimage centre  in India.
View of Maa Vaishnodevi hill from Katra
 Next day early morning,we started trek at 04 am from BANGANGA check post, with others. This first 6 km of walk is the most steep one,really tough for legs.  The paved trail is very busy with walkers, ponies, palkies and shops. Because of ponies it stinks a lot till Ardhkumari, even though cleaning is done from time to time. Those allergic to dust may experience throat irritation after journey  which may disappear in few days. From there onward last 5 km to Bhawan, there is separate ways for ponies and pilgrims, so much better and fresh air. Drinking water, snacks ,beverages , ice cream, and food is  available all along the way.We availed the service of Pittu to carry our luggage, they also carry kids, massage legs .On the way we ate Rajma chawal and drank cold Nestle Tea.
starting point of trek at Bhangangaa,those sticks are helpful during ascent

Paved way ,pleasant weather 
View of  Katra town from top
this trail is free from passing ponies









Closing down towards the Bhavan
After reaching the Bhawan , we kept our luggage, camera (we did not carry mobile) at the locker ,the queue was a long one,it almost took an hour to get a locker to keep our camera.,by that time others were gone.The Darshan queue was also a long one, ladies and gents were separated in different lines.There is no idol, the cave itself comprises of three natural rock formations or pindies belonging to Maha Kali, Maha Lakshmi & Maha Saraswathi which are immersed in water. Finally out happily, could not find my wife,somehow spotted her due to the  dress colour. After this incident, we always plan the spot to meet after the darshan .Very tired after that walk and push ups  at Locker we ate dosas carried  from Hotel. Surekha insisted to visit Bhairo mandir perched on the top still 4-5km uphill further. This time we hired a pony, it turned to be a steep ascent .Balancing the down hill ride on pony is not my world,I almost slipped ,but the pony care -taker held me at the right moment.

This  treacherously long, uphill walk of 12 kms from Katra to  worship  Maa Vaishnodevi at Trikoota mountains  and the return  distressing pony ride of 18 Kms (from Bhairo) downhill almost  gave  me  a  second  life. I surely had Maa Vaishno devi's  blessings. Jai Mata di !!.Finally we reached room at 6.00 p.m , I gulped pain killer tablets because my hands and legs were aching.

Shankaracharya Temple,Srinagar

Overlooking the beautiful town of Srinagar, perched on the Gopadri hill  is the ancient shrine of God Shiva. Ever since Adi Shankaracharya visited this shrine,the temple got the name Shankaracharya Temple.Here at Srinagar, Shankaracharya accepted the predominance of Shakti cult (greatness of Devi) wrote Saundarya Lahari in praise of Devi after yielding to a lady in discussion ,

There is a motor-able road till top,after that a bit of a trek, some 240+ steps, the views of Dal lake from the top are awesome.  There is heavy army presence here, and tourists are not allowed to carry cameras/bags and mobile phones.
Ksheer Bhawani Temple, near Shrinagar
On the way to Sonmarg, 27Km from Srinagar is Ksheer Bhawani Mandir,  set amidst the picturesque surroundings covered with the trees of Chinar. The Goddess Ragnya originally worshipped by Lord Rama is depicted in the form of a natural hexagonal spring that is adored by the devotees..Devotees offer 'Kheer' to the consecrated spring. It is alleged that 'kheer' turns black in color signalling inauspicious period for the inhabitants of the valley. Presently the temple is maintained by Indian army,hence tight security maintained at entrance, it is the most sacred place for Kashmiri Pandits. We ate the Kheer prasadm here,Amarnath Yatrees halt  for food,donations are accepted here . In the premises ,spotted the branches of a Chinar tree  cut and shaped to form the image of India.
Lake circumventing the Ksheer Bhawani Mandir


Chinar trees 

Branches  cut in the shape of Map of India

Details about the temple
Kashmir is blessed with nature's bounties, temples are most impressive.

After Ksheer-Bhavani, next day our destinies took us to Pahalgam . On the way , our driver stopped our vehicle in front of  Avanthipur  temple ruins which was once upon a time capital of  Kashmir. A sardarji Guide  in Punjabi –English  accent explained the history of the temple, but we could not capture his accent.
Avanthipur temple ruins

Avantipur ruins speak about glorius past


Martand Suriya Temple, Mattan
En route to Pahlgaon, at Mattan,there  is a blissful temple dedicated to Lord Surya having a large pond  with fishes. Tourists are often confused with the Majestic National Monument in Martand . Apart from Sun Temple there are temples of Lord Vishnu, Hanuman & Shani in this complex,This is the only place managed by  Kashmir Pandits ,also  sacred to the Sikhs as Guru Nanak Devji came here & stayed for 13 days. A Gurudwara has been built .We interacted with  local temple caretakers,donated some amount and heard the history and relevance of the site from both Hindu and Sikh perspective . From here Pahalgaon is only 34Km.We were not taken to the ancient Martand temple only 2km from Mattan.


Mattan Surya Temple complex

Temple Pond